19 July 2016
My wife and I had been planning a day trip to Khao Yai National Park for some time. After a few cancelled attempts, eventually we found a day we could make it out. Khao Yai National park was the first designated national park in Thailand in 1962. It covers 2,168 sq km across 4 provinces of Thailand and is about 200 km North East of Bangkok. The park sits in a mountain range and ranges from 800 to 3000 metres above sea level.
Comprising of forest, rain forest and open grassland the park also has an abundance of wildlife, particularly butterflies, deer, elephants and 200+ species of indigenous birds. There are a number of campsites and among the most popular landmarks are a series of waterfalls around the park. Entry is 400 baht per adult but Thai nationals usually get in for free. It makes a great day out and is very popular with local day trippers.
As it’s not too much of a distance to get there, we left home around 9.00am allowing the morning traffic to subside making for an easier exit from Bangkok. Indeed it was a hot day, already in the 30’s. En route we stopped at Starbucks Wang Noi. Getting out of Bangkok can be slow, hot and tedious so it makes a nice halfway rest stop for a coffee and a chance to cool off some.
Arriving at the out skirts of the National Park is a 7-11 which makes for a good spot to grab some drinks and food.
Arriving at the park itself is an entry gate where there is a security check and payment of the entry fee. Here we had one of those famed great Thai experiences. On seeing my bike (still with the English translated registration sticker on the front) the ranger called us over to the guard post and demanded our passports. In Thai I managed to explain that my passport is at home and proceeded to produce my Thai Drivers license which then caused some discussion & confusion among the rangers, who then realised I have a Thai bike as they thought I was a visiting Malaysian. They mistook Ara for being a Thai, and then on explaining that I lived in Bangkok, we were then somehow absolved of paying the entry fee. We took some photos with them which made them quite happy and then allowed to proceed.
Riding up the mountain is a twisty and slow ride, with many blind bends. The power and torque of the GSA makes for an easy attack on the mountain even two up and is great for quick overtaking manoeuvres on cars in between the bends. I went past a group of small bike riders on their way up the mountain. About half way up is a view point where we stopped for some snaps, and by this time the bike group caught up with whom we exchanged photo snaps.
The main tourist information centre is the first part you arrive at. Here we changed in to more comfortable clothing dumping most of our riding gear into the panniers. From here on it’s a combination of short and slow riding in between stops and then some walking to see the waterfalls and tourist spots. But taking time to explore the visitor centre is quite nice and interesting.
The first water fall, Kong Kaeo Waterfall (Namtok Kong Kaeo )is about 100m in from the tourist spot and actually wasn’t much to see. It’s a shallow fall over three small levels so it was seen it, done it, event. Then back to the bike and it’s a slow 10 minutes ride to the next waterfall.
The next waterfall Haew Suwat Waterfall (Namtok Haew Suwat), is a nice one to see. 100m or so walking from the carpark and requires a descent down a steep staircase. It’s a very popular spot to visit as seen by the many tourists.
From here I wanted to ride to the highest point in the park but the road was closed even to bikes for safety reasons. So I proceeded down the other side of the mountain to the best waterfall of the park, the Haew Narok Waterfall (Namtok Haew Narok).
This waterfall is accessed by a walk of about 1.5km from the car park. It’s on 3 levels with the first drop being 60m. The second and third levels drop another 150m and is accessed by a very steep stair case. The stair case definitely tests the cardio system. On the way down there was a woman resting about half way on her way back up the staircase. As we made our way back up some 30 mins later she was still there and a stretcher was being brought to her to be stretchered out.
Motorbikes are a great way to meet and talk to people. That’s one thing I’ve learned a lot since biking and it’s made me much more open to people myself. As we arrived back to the car park I noticed a chap looking over my bike. As I went over we then struck up a conversation around my bike and where I’ve been riding. He was very much an admirer of bikes, from Australia. Of course that left me quite smiling which my wife noticed. “If we were in a car, that conversation would never have taken place” I told her. And that’s one of the beauty’s of riding motorbikes. People are always keen to talk to you, have a snap taken and even want to be photographed sitting on the bike. And then i forgot to take a photo with him, lol.
With the park viewed it was time to head home. Still in the casual attire, I decided we’d ride out of the park, and stop at the first decent fuel station for a coffee and some food, get into our full riding gear and head home. Little did I know that it would be a good 30 minutes ride. In the heat of the afternoon Sun still in the high 30’s, my arms and feet got a good dose of Sun and so when I got the the fuel stop I was already showing signs of of a good sunburn. Note to self – either put on a good layer of sun cream or wear full sleeve shirt next time. !!
After gearing up we set off to what I thought would be a non-stop ride home. Some 150km, should be done within 2 hours taking into account traffic. About 10 mins in, I had a knock on the back of my helmet. A kilometre later another knock, and then another, each knock being a bit harder.
My wife was falling asleep on the back of the bike. I did a few of the usual things done before in this event. Rub her legs, pull her arms around me but then when going round a bend I felt the bike weight move sharply as she was nodding off again mid-bend. So I pulled in at the first fuel stop, into the Amazon cafe, and insisted she get her head down for a minimum of 30 minutes before we set off. Quite reluctantly, she did for which she was thankful when we got home.
A big thing I’ve learned of is that pillion safety is utmost and the number one priority. So in this instance it matters not if you get home an hour or so later or in the dark, but that you actually get home safe and sound.
Eventually we got home about 6pm still in daylight hours after navigating Route 305 through Nakorn Nayok. It’s a very long and very straight road but immensely busy so has to be taken with a lot of care.
All in covered 376 km for the day. That’s another one off the list.
Motorcycle Chronicles by Jamil Siddique 